Back home safely from the Motherland

So I have made in back safely to Canada. Apologies for not updating my blog earlier, my mom gently reminded me to a couple days ago so that “my readers” (…if there really are any), wouldn't start worrying that I had died or something.

My whole experience was absolutely incredible – I can’t even really put it into words. I think it was definitely what I needed after having a bit of a tough year. I have learned so much from this experience, and am sure it has changed me (or changed the way I look at things) in many ways. It's been a very humbling experience. I can only hope it will be the first, of many trips to Africa – and I am already dreaming of going back. It’s a little strange to be back in Canada. Day to day life isn’t nearly as funny. The weekend before I left to go to Uganda I was home for my dad’s 50th birthday (he’s getting up there!) and brought a bag of clothes home from school so that I would have something to wear for in August before going back to school in the fall. I had kind of forgotten about that, and when I got home and unpacked… the first thing I thought of was “OMG I have so much STUFF”. It really made me realize how little you can get by on, and how much we have.

So I am catching up on posts now; some from Rwanda, that I wanted to write but didn’t have a much time so I decided to hold off. The first one – is on the genocide memorials – so maybe best to start there if you want to read them in some kind of order. Also, I went back and added some pics and videos to some earlier posts (Videos from TASO in - "Village Outreaches...", and "Hips Don't Lie"). In any case, if you aren’t bored with reading about my adventures and want to look at some more photos I have a bunch on facebook that I’m told you can view even without a facebook account so here’s the links:

Daily life in Jinja and around Uganda:
http://mcmaster.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118061&l=a43dd&id=72600406

A little more of daily life:
http://mcmaster.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118063&l=c6874&id=72600406

Pics of nights out and people from the guesthouse:
http://mcmaster.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118068&l=daa64&id=72600406

Safari pics:
http://mcmaster.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118071&l=d1ef9&id=72600406

The adorable kids at Welcome Home Orphanage:
http://mcmaster.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118073&l=2f9be&id=72600406

A few from around TASO and the Jinja Hospital:
http://mcmaster.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118074&l=40a13&id=72600406

The best of the pics from around Rwanda:
http://mcmaster.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118075&l=55cb3&id=72600406

Glad I could share this adventure with you all!

Ode to Vicki!!!!!!

Wanted to write a little post about Vicki – whom I spent nearly every minute with when I wasn’t at TASO. We got along incredibly well, I learned a lot from this girl, and had many wonderful conversations with her.

One of the things that I struggled with a bit while I was in Uganda, was religion. I’ve gone to church, but I wasn’t brought up as a Christian. I feel in many ways that I am spiritual, but believe more so in being what I consider to be a “good person” in my every day life – trying my best to be kind to everyone, and being compassionate and caring to those around me to the best of my ability. In Uganda, you are either Chrisitan or you are Muslim. If you are neither, you believe in traditional religion (witchcraft type stuff). The people I met in Uganda are extremely open and forward in discussing religion. People that I just met would ask me if I was born again, if I believed Jesus was my saviour, etc. I wasn’t really prepared for this. I had never been so confronted with religion, so immersed in a culture where it is so important. When I explained to people that I am spiritual in a sense, but not Christian per se – that I am interested in learning about many different religions; some people tried to convince me that other religions were “wrong” and misguided, and they counseled me that I still had time “to be saved”. I think many aspects of religion (be it Christianity, or anything else), are great. But some of the ways that the Church works in Uganda, seemed a little backwards to me. For example: people would talk about how devote they are, yet they would cheat on their partners on a regular basis.
A lot of it seemed as though the actions of praising God, and going to church seemed more important than being a “good Chrisitan” in day to day life. Looking back it was a neat process to go through, and I found it really interesting to learn about how crucial a role religion plays in life in Uganda. I must admit though, I found it difficult at times because I would find myself explaining my position (in hour long conversations about religion) a couple times a week. Vicki, really helped me through this process. She’s a Christian (and studied at a bible college in New Zealand for a year) – and whenever I would become frustrated with it, I would talk to her. She had a lot of patience with me, and would answer questions I had, and would explain her views on things. I found it refreshing to talk to her – and definitely gave me some new perspectives on Christianity and religion in general.

Vicki – thank you for all the porch sits, awesome talks, hugs, and laughs, the early morning runs (when I got up for them – haha…runs with headlamps), staying up all night with me when I had food poisoning, all the DUCKS and ACDs. I couldn’t have asked for anything more, or a better person to travel and share this incredible experience with. Your hippy-ness has started to wear off on me – and my first time grocery shopping in Canada, I bought chick peas, tuna, and granola. Before I know it I’ll be walking around barefoot and have dreads (hahah…jk… I don’t think I will ever go THAT far). I can’t wait for the Summerland (aka. Super Happy Fun Land) reunion! Love you so much!

In case you haven’t seen it, Vicki also has a blog: www.vkharris.blogspot.com

Tribal Council

From reading “An Ordinary Man” – I learned that traditionally in Rwanda, disputes that arose in villages would be settled in what they called “Gacaca Trials”. “Gacaca” means “justice on the grass,” and would consist of a mini trial whereby people would explain their side of the story. A lot of value is placed on honesty (to oneself and to the community). The community would listen, and would collectively come up with a way to reconcile the dispute – and come up with appropriate punishments.

I was fascinated to learn (at the genocide memorials) that Gacaca trials are currently being used to try some of the perpetrators of the genocide. Because of the sheer number of “genocidaries” – the government has utilized this traditional route. While we were driving up to Pilagie’s village we drove through several trials that were taking place literally, on the grass. The representative from Compassion told us that every two weeks they have trials, and people gather outside under trees and listen to prisoners explain who they killed, how they killed them and where they left the remains in the villages where they performed these acts. He explained that it is therapeutic in a way for many villagers as they can find out where there family members remains are (many of whom are still missing), which may provide some closure. The prisoners’ accounts are recorded and then judges elected within the community, who wear blue, green and yellow (Rwandese colors) sashes, determine a sentence. As we drove through the country, it was weird to see prisoners everywhere, in their light pink garb doing work in the fields, and testifying in the trials.

At the genocide memorial they had a video clip from one of the trials – and it was startling to hear the prisoner explain who he killed and who that person was related to. It seemed bizarre to me, that he knew him – it was people killing their own neighbors.

Meeting Pilagie

Vicki and I went grocery shopping (they have real grocery stores in Kigali!!!!!!! – which was a bit of an adventure in itself), to buy a bunch of things for Vicki’s sponsor child, Pilagie and her family. It was kind of exciting to be able to spoil her family a bit – so we bought a bunch of basic food supplies (oil, different types of floor, rice, etc), as well as some things for around the house (bowls, soap, toothpaste, toothbrushes, etc.) and then some toys for Pilagie and her siblings.

Early on Wednesday morning, a representative from Compassion International (the organization which Vicki sponsors Pilagie through) picked us up and we drove for three hours to get to Pilagie’s village. Stunning drive up, absolutely beautiful scenery. One tape played on repeat the whole time – so we heard a whole lot of Celine Dion, old school backstreet boys, KC and Jojo and some other equally old and cheesy music. Was fun at first – but by the time “All I have to give” came on for the 6th or 7th time it started getting a little annoying.

As soon as we pulled up to the Compassion office, a women started taking our picture on this old camera (bigger than the my red and white “fisher price” one – believe it or not). There was a big reception for us, and they told us all about the work that Compassion is doing in Pilagie’s village (there about 250 kids that are sponsored in the area). Then we met Pilagie, her parents, and her brothers and sisters. Her parents were adorable – so happy to be able to meet Vicki – and incredibly thankful. It was really one of the neatest experiences ever to see Vicki meet Pilagie, who she has been sponsoring and sending letters to for the past two years. I think Pilagie was a little scared at first – maybe because it was such a big ceremony and she was at the center of all of it, but started to open up once she got used to us. We played for a little while with her and her siblings – blew bubbles, played with some little balls that we got for them, and gave them some candy. Pilagie’s truly a beautiful girl – and I felt really honored to be able to be present and share this experience with Vicki. The drive home, neither Vicki or I really said a word. I stuck my head half out the window and soaked in the beauty of the country. I think part of me, knew that I was leaving soon so I wanted to remember and experience as much “Africa” as I could.

Our paparrazzi for the day:
Pilagie giving Vicki a bag that her mom made for Vicki (her mom made me one too!)

Kids outside peering in to find out what was gonig on...

Vicki with Pilagie and her family.

Never Again

Vicki, two American guys we had met on the bus down to Kigali (Brandon and Joseph), and I went to Kigali Memorial Center, which is one of the main genocide memorials in the country. The main exhibit provided history of the country leading up to the genocide (the different tribal groups, through colonization, and then after independence) as to better understand the genocide, then documented the genocide itself, followed by the consequences and its aftermath. The exhibit struck a good balance between providing information and history, as well as having videos that played survivor’s stories and testimonies (which to me are more moving and interesting). I found one part about “Heroes” of the genocide really interesting, which featured short stories of people who saved Tutsi (and moderate Hutu) lives through different means. Two stories that really stuck out: one, of a woman who everyone in the area thought was mad, who kept refugees in her house and threatened to curse anyone who tried to come on her property. And then another about a man who built trenches in his backyard and to hide people. He then covered up the trenches with banana leaves and built fake crops overtop so it looked like a regular farm.

It was heart wrenching at times reading about the horrible ways that innocent people were slaughtered by machetes, clubbed to death or tortured. One of the most moving parts of the exhibit was a picture memorial – which displayed thousands of victims photos (everything from polaroids, school pictures, to wedding photos). Vicki and I spent quite a lot time just looking at all the people. I think I spoke to this in an earlier post about HIV, and how I find statistics dehumanizing at times. For me, seeing people’s photos, allowed me to imagine what the person may have been like, their stories, their family, etc. which makes everything so much more real. There were also some smaller rooms which displayed victim’s bloodstained clothes, some personal belongings, identity cards, and skulls and bones - which was equally haunting.

Upstairs they had two smaller exhibits – one on other genocides that have happened around the world (Armenia, Holocaust, Cambodia, Namibia, among others). At the end of the exhibit there was a quote I find appropriate:

“If you must remember, remember this…
The Nazis did not kill six million Jews,
Nor did the Interhamwe kill a million Tutsis.
They killed one and then another, then another…
Genocide is not a single act of murder,
It is a million acts of murder”

The last exhibit – which I found the hardest was called something like “Lives Wasted” or “Wasted Opportunities”, something to that affect. It featured probably fifteen or twenty kids. Each one had a large blown up picture of them, and then a plaque that had there name, age, favorite foods, favorite games, best friend, what they wanted to be when they grew up, and then how they died (things that were absolutely unimaginable to me – machete to the head, thrown against a wall, tortured to death). I had a bit of a breakdown, walking around reading these things. Both very moving and very touching.




Outside the main building, are 11 mass graves where the remains of about 250,000 people lie. I found it hard to imagine, that’s more than double the population of Thunder Bay. I had trouble wrapping my head around the fact that the genocide happened in Rwanda – as it now seems so peaceful, and its such a stunningly beautiful country. I couldn’t help but wonder when I talked with people around town what they must have been going through less than fifteen years ago.

"We will never forget you" on one of the mass graves.

Next we went to Hotel des Milles Collines (Hotel Rwanda), which is quite the posh hotel. We went down by the pool and sat at a table by the bar and just had a drink and chatted for a little while. You would have never known it was a huge refuge for so many during the genocide had you not seen the movie or read about it (there were no plaques, or signs, just a regular nice hotel). Knowing the history was kind of chilling to sit there… When I got back to Jinja, I read the autobiography of Paul Rusesabagina, the manager of the hotel at the time, entitled “An Ordinary Man”. I highly recommend it if you’re at all interested in learning more about the genocide and about the hotel. It’s written quite simply and reads MUCH more easily than “Shake Hands with the Devil” (Romeo Dallaire), which I read a couple years ago, and found it difficult to follow because it was from such a military perspective.

gorillas in the mist

Yesterday (Sunday) - Vicki and I woke up at 5:30 or so (after an 11 hour sleep -haahah) and drove up to the main park office for the "Parc National des Volcans". We had booked our gorilla permits about a month ago - as they are quite hard to get ahold of. There are only about 700 mountain gorillas left in the world - located in the mountains between the borders of Uganda, Congo, and Rwanda. We were at the same area where Diane Fossey documented and lived with the Gorillas (Gorillas in the Mist). Absoltuely incredible drive up in the morning - super misty (how cliché) - coudln't see the the peak of the mountains from the mist- gorgeous! I think there are 5 groups of gorillas located in Rwanda - and each group can be visited by 8 people a day for an hour (this is a really strict time line - as not to bother the gorillas for too long). There are trekkers that go and find each group every morning and then stay within half a kilometer or so from them to watch for poachers.

Vicki and I joined another group of 6 that have been staying in Kigali for a while (all doing different things). We trekked a group called "Group 13", creatively named as when the group was discovered in 85 it had 13 members. Since has grown to 22 - 1 silverback (male leader), 10 females and then a bunch of "juveniles" and babies - the youngest (which we didn't see) was only two weeks old. Really interesting - the gorillas in each group are distinguished by their "noseprints" which are all unique - just like out fingerprints. We got driven to a smaller village and then walked about half an hour or so to the edge of the national parc. From there it was another hour and a half or so in the park to get to the gorillas. Was a pretty strenuous hike (not really that high) just lots of mud, and ducknig through vines, bamboo, etc. Once we got there we left our packs with the trekkers and then walked closer with the guide and one of the trekkers. They made "gorilla noises" that are supposed to "make the gorillas happy" - just lots of grunting really.

Absolutely phenomenal when we saw them - the silverback was enormous - nearly 200 kilos. We got within 7m from them (thats the closest your allowed to get) - but at times I think we were much closer if one well out of a tree and we needed to back up. The whole experience was amazing and really so hard ot describe... don't htink i can really do it justice. Most of the time we were there they were eating, and climbing trees a bit - some of them had bad gas which was kind of humerous. Towards the end was there siesta time so they were all started sleeping. Got a glimpse of some of the babies - soooo cute. And the younger ones were super playful and were chasing each other around trees msot of the time we were there.

We couldn't take any photos with a flash (for obvious reasons) - so a lot of my pictures didn't really turn out that great. I have a couple - and Vicki also has some good videos though that I will post when I get faster internet (ie. in Canada). Anyways I should probably get off the internet and start exploring Kigali - gorillas were definately one of the most amazing things I have ever experienced!!!! Ever. Ciao for now! Lots of love,

leslie.

Rwanda, Rwanda!!!

One of the really busy streets - that is completely deserted for Umuganda (monthly event where everything closes for cleaning and community service).

Please excuse all the spelling mistakes that may be in this – as I’m using a keyboard that’s in French so everything is moved around - so i've swithced it to english but now i have ot type by memory which i'm not very good at! Bah…

So it was a long time coming (ten hours in a overpacked bus from Kampala to Kigali to be exact). Bus ride involved being super squished with bags cramped everywhere, peeing in the bush, eating pretty much nothing except a package of biscuits, chaos at the border crossing, and an array of lovely smells, featuring strong Ugandan BO among other “special” smells. Also my backpack got covered in a wonderful mysterious liquid that smells horrid – lovely. Hahah anyways we made it alive.

The hotel which we thought we had booked – turned out not to be. We were brought across the street to a hotel which is awesome but a little more expensive then we wanted to pay (about 20 US for a room – per person). Really nice hotel though, would probably pay 100 Cdn at home, so was a nice treat to have a nice shower, TV, and a little balcony.

On the bus over we met a group of 4 guys, 2 Americans and 2 Brits, who also were in a similar jam (having thought they were booked in at the same hotel to find that they also were not). So we spent most of the night hanging out with them – awesome time, and neat to hear their travel stories from all over. I’ve also been using my French here – which is awesome as I haven’t spoken much for the last 4 or 5 years (since the end of high school really). So I have been in charge of ordering everyone dinner, booking rooms, asking for directions, etc. – anyways lots of fun and haven’t had too much difficulty so far.

Next day Vicki and I took a bus to from Kigali to Ruhengeri (close to the Ugandan and Congolese border) where we were staying the night before mountain gorilla trekking. Mtatu ride up was equally as squished as our bus ride to Kigali and the man beside me was super sweaty and I had old man BO all over my arm for the whole ride up – I smelt super good after! Anyways all write more about the gorilla trip in my other post.

Came back to Kigali yesterday to find that once again the hotel we had been booked at was overbooked and we had no room. Lukily, the man who runs the hotel is in love with me – and has told me, Vicki and lots of other people – that we are getting married – so he walked Vicki and I hand in hand across the street back to the expensive hotel and got us a really good discount on our room. Thank god for the Canadian French accent! He’s also giving us a good deal on our rooms for the rest of our stay here (paying 6,000 fr a piece per night instead of the usual 9,000fr).

First impressions of Rwanda: I was surprised at how different it is from Rwanda. It seems a lot more wealthy – as I’ve been told that following the genocide a lot of international donor flooded the country with cash. Boy it really makes a difference. It seems much more developed that Uganda. The roads are paved with little to no potholes – I would say better than a lot of the roads in Canada. Also the landscape is really different than Uganda – rolling hills everywhere. The ride down was stunning as the roads wind down through the hills – absolteuly breathtaking views. I have lots of pictures but none of the computers at this internet café take USB cords so I will update when I can. It’s absolutely beautiful though! Also Rwandans make incredible use of the land available – almost every inch of soils seems to be being cultivated. Even in hills where there are near vertical drops there are crops.

Also – I was shocked at how clean everything is here. It’s been such a shock compared to Uganda – where garbage is thrown everywhere, animals and their feces little the streets – grown used to it, and I think it adds to Uganda’s charm in a way – but entirely different from Rwanda. At the border crossing we had to remove all of our plastic bags as they aren’t allowed in the country (you could buy paper bags for 100 fr – about 20 cents American each). Also on Saturday – we were here for this monthly event - Umuganda, (I think the first Saturday of every month) where the whole country stops until mid-day to clean. It was so bizarre – no one can drive and virtually everything is shut down as everyone is supposed to go out and clean the street. Even this morning I woke up at 6 (because Vicki and I went to bed at about 7:45 last night) and was reading on the balcony and there were people cleaning the streets. Even the poorest of the poor seem to ensure that their yards are well kept and tidy. It’s beautiful – and really makes a difference. Phenomenal country to visit – more expensive than Uganda though.

Today Vicki and I are walking around Kigali and exploring for most of the day. We are planning on buying some food and maybe some toys and clothes for Pilagie, Vicki’s sponsor child who we will be visiting on Wednesday. So excited! Tomorrow we are planning to visit the genocide memorials (as well as two church memorials where there were large massacres – if we have time) and then hoping to head to Hotel Milles Collines (Hotel Rwanda) in the afternoon or evening.

Thursday were taking the treacherous bus ride back to Kampala. And Friday we are going to a dinner at the Canadian Consulate (READ: free dinner at a nice hotel). That’s it for now! Wow, this is the longest post of life. Cheers!

my first boda accident

So, Vicki and I went to Kampala today (right now at the backpackers in Kampala where we're staying the night). We each had our own boda from the main Adrift office down to a bus station... So driving in Kampala is pretty scary stuff to start with - there's TONNNS of traffic, and boda swerve in and out everywhere. Pretty much a free for all - so a car cut the boda that I was on off to get into a parknig spot which forced my driver to slam on the breaks and i got shoved into him pretty hard. Then the driver started backing up and hit our boda - oh my.... scary, but was going slow. The driver got out and my boda man got off the boda - and they kind of shoved each other and yelled a bit. I was kind of scared. By that time Vicki's boda was far ahead and out of sight. Anyways the driver wanted to call the cops - but in the end we just drove off. So that was my first bit of real boda excitement. My boda man was convinced the driver was drunk. Anyways I'm here safe and sound - trip to Rwanda off to a good start - exciting already.

makes you think...

So when we went to Kampala a while back (for the Safari) we went to a mall called garden city. They had this big bookstore which Lindsay, Vicki and I spent a ton of time in. I was eyeing this photography book called "Hope in the Dark" (By Jeremy Cowart and Jena Lee), but didn't really want to buy it because it was kind of expensive and I convinced myself that I could buy it online when I got home if I still wanted it. Vicki knew how much i wanted it, so she sneekily went and got it for me, so when I got home a while later there was this book as a present on my bed. Honestly, thank you so much Vicki - one of the best books, and it really means the world to me.

I just thought I would share a quote that I found particularly touching.

* * * Decisions I must make on any given day:
- Blue shirt or pink cardigan?
- Tall soy chai latte or Grande caramel macchiato?
- Write reports first or work on budget?
- Text message or call?
- Eat out or frozen dinner?
- Reality television or headline news?


* * * Decisions SHE must make on any given day:
- blue dress or blue dress?
- river water or puddle water?
- Walk once for four hours to get water or walk twice for eight hours to get more water?
- Sleep with the fisherman who will give food in return or let orphaned grandchildren go to bed hungry?
- persist through the struggle or give up?
- Curse God or praise Him?

Market Madness!

Got back on a computer so I thought I would post some pics from the market. market is absoltue chaos usually and you can buy absolutely everything you could ever need with people willing to bargain a price.
Sweet, sweet pineapples.

Fish, fish, fish.... apparently these little baby fish are really nutritious! I haven't tried them - but people kind of snack on them. They also sell fried bugs that people munch on (white ants...I think). MMM...

The butcher...